Resilience

or Prayers from a Burned Out City

Nov 17, 2023

Known as the 'Millionaire's Church,' St. John’s it also served as a significant hub during the 1960s Civil Rights Movement under the leadership of Reverend Robert Castle.

-Nathalie Kalbach-

“Resilience”: Acrylic Paint and Marker on Canvas, 12x12 (sold

St. John's Episcopal Church, currently in a state of disrepair, has captivated my interest ever since I first laid eyes on it. This wounded yet picturesque Gothic Revival building unveils itself to me, holding a unique place in the history of this city.

A wonderful postcard - curtesy of Dennis Doran - Historian

Several people connected to my own house were early supporters of the church, contributing to its construction. The local architect, James Remsen Onderdonk II. designed the church. The corner stone was laid in May 1870 and the church officially opened it’s doors on February 2nd, 1873. Its rough and irregularly laid blue granite body, coupled with brownstone-clad steps, doors, and window surrounds clad were visible from various points in Jersey City. This spurred the construction of many mansions and ornate brownstones in the neighborhood with St. John’s as the architectural gem of Bergen Hill. No wonder it became the spiritual center of this new affluent community- by 1910, it was the largest and wealthiest Episcopal parish in New Jersey, boasting a membership in the thousands.

Reverend Stoddard who became the second clergyman of St. John’s. He might have been a nice man, but he makes me want to run for confession -yes my Catholic upbringing is showing.

Reverend Castle, who served as the Church’s leader from 1960-1968, was a staunch advocate for Civil Rights in Jersey City.

Reverend Castle marched alongside Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. in Mississippi, protested against the Vietnam War, and opened his church to meetings of the Students for a Democratic Society and the Black Panthers, who had their Jersey City headquarters on the same street. He lobbied for desegregated and affordable housing and safer streets in Jersey City, and once dumped a load of garbage outside City Hall.

Castle protesting in front of City Hall, the sign says “Mayor! Desegregate Housing!” - curtesy of John Gomez - Historic Preservationist and Founder of the JCLC

After Castle left for Harlem, the church started to decline and the diocese closed the church in 1994 neglected and abandoned.

Castle’s life was documented in the film “Cousin Bobby” by his younger cousin Jonathan Demme, the acclaimed director of “Silence of the Lambs” and Philadelphia (Castle plays a role in Philadelphia). It is difficult to find the documentary, and once in a while it vanishes again - but if you are interested - you can find it here right now. (The JC parts start at around 44mins).

But back to the Church: Once adorned with Tiffany stained glass windows designed by Agnes Northrop, the diocese removed them about two decades ago, along with anything of value, selling them off.

Aren’t those Tiffany Windows beautiful? You can check them out at the Driehaus Museum in Chicago as the diocese ripped them out and sold them off. At least they are safe now …that’s a way to see it to be honest!

Castle came back frequently to support efforts by the Jersey City Landmarks Conservancy to save the church, which is now eligible for listing in the National Historic Landmarks Registry due to its architectural and cultural significance, but alas, is still falling apart.

Reverend Castle during the Jersey City Landmarks Conservancy Awards 2006- He was awarded the “Legend Award” . I truly wish, I would have been there, Reverend Castle passed away in 2012 - curtesy of the JCLC

In the face of challenges of the times, this church became a sanctuary for hope, courage, and community. Yet, as we witness the building’s gradual decline, the extent of its resilience remains uncertain.

Nat

P.S.: Within these walls, voices rose in solidarity, echoing the sentiments expressed in 'Prayers from a Burned-Out City,' penned in 1968.